East Lothian: Traprain Law, Hailes Castle: Byres Hill (Hopetoun Monument)

31 May 2017

Participants: Neil and Ben

Where: Traprain Law, 221m/725', Hump, OS 67, NT 582747: Hailes Castle: Byres Hill (Hopetoun Monument), Tump, 181m/594', OS 66, NT 501764

 

After a few unsettled days, the good weather had returned- but only, according to the forecast, for today. As most of the Marilyns I still had to do involved an overnight stay and therefore two days, I went back to my list of other hills to do and decided on a trip to East Lothian. Traprain Law dominates that part of the area- this is the view of it from the east.....
 

 

Way back in the early 1980's when I had had the occasional dabble with rock climbing before deciding it was not for me, I had visited this hill to climb on the cliffs that extensively cover its southern slopes.....

I feel sure that I must have escaped the climbing bit for long enough to actually go to the top of the hill but if so, I couldn't remember what it was like. Anyway, this time I went up by the tourist path on the north side at the start of which was a Historic Environment Scotland information board. As might be expected of a hill that so dominates its surroundings, it figures strongly in early history. Some quotes from the history board:

 

By around 1500BC, the local Bronze Age population was using the hill for burial. The main archaeological features that can be seen are the ramparts of an Iron Age hill fort. These would have enclosed a settlement made up of many timber buildings. The photo of the history board has not come out particularly well but you can see the drawing of how the hill fort might have looked.....

By the later centuries BC the hill fort was probably the capital of a tribe called the Votadini. These people occupied much of south-east Scotland and appeared to have been allies of the invading Romans during the latter part of the first century AD. In 1919 archaeologist found a hoard of Roman silver- the largest find outwith the Roman empire. This weighed 53 lbs. and largely comprised cut up and flattened Roman silver tableware, Whether this was paid by the Romans to the Votadini for services rendered or was stolen by the latter is not known.

 

The fort remained the capital of the Votadini long after the departure of the Romans and until at least the 5th century AD.

 

The hill certainly commands the surrounding area. Here is Ben on the path with Haddington and Byres Hill, the next hill on today's agenda, in the background.....
 

 

The trig and cairn looking north to the Bass Rock.....

and looking south to the Lammermuirs.....

north again with both North Berwick Law and the Bass Rock in the background.....

west to Haddington and the Hopetoun Monument with Arthurs Seat in Edinburgh back left; also the Firth of Forth and the Fife coast.....

There are stones in the shape of a ring fort close by the trig; this is looking over them to the Lammermuirs.....

A notice at the foot of the hill said that there was a herd of a dozen Exmoor ponies grazing the slopes but fortunately they must have been at the other side of the hill today so Ben was able to stay off the lead.

 

Back at the car we headed for the Hopetoun Monument but before doing so made a small diversion to have a look at Hailes castle. I had been here a few times before, it sits in a peaceful spot on the banks of the river Tyne. The castle dates back to the late 13th century and was extensively expanded over the next 200 years. It exchanged hands between the Scots and the English a number of times and was once owned by James Hepburn, 4th Earl of Bothwell, the third husband of Mary, Queen of Scots. I took a few photographs.....

 

 

 

 

The next objective was the Hopetoun Monument which stands at the top of Byres Hill to the north of Haddington and which can be seen for many miles around. Byres Hill is a Tump. The Monument is 95' tall, has 132 steps and was erected in 1824 to the memory of John Hope, 4th Earl of Hopetoun. There is a commemorative plaque.....

 

 

It reads "This Monument was erected to the memory of the great and good John, Fourth Earl of Hopetoun by his affectionate and grateful tenantry in East Lothian MDCCCXXIV". Changed days! There is a similar monument to the Earl across the Forth near Cupar on the top of Mount Hill but it is not nearly in such good condition.

 

Approaching Byres Hill from the west.....

 

 

There is a car park and information boards from where a path winds steeply up the hill.....

 

 

Ben at the tower and at the tower door.....

 

 

 

The view across the Forth to Fife.....

 

 

No high hills today but an interesting trip nonetheless.